so what this is the shower and toilet
build part two when it gets to it in red
check it early beeps and just sorting
out the toilet here so I'll put a noggin
in the wall where this this bracket is
going to be attaching to so this bracket
is screwed onto the finished wall on the
inside and then when the toilet comes
down that sits inside of this this
little groove here so that stops the
toilet from moving about and then you've
got the robots obviously at that keep it
watertight so basically what I've got
got the templates here yet the only five
of this template I'm gonna be using is
this top part that corresponds to
corresponds to that rough this or
basically what up doing is mark the
center line on the middle of Paul and
then I've mark the center line on stood
here
so I've already had the toilet out and
sat this temple ears off and it does sit
at the right height or I'm gonna drill
the holes from the buck and then when
this boards on I'm gonna go all the way
through this wall just with a small
drill bit and then I'll sure exactly
where this bracket means to sit and then
we can fix it in with the right size
screws the screws that you get are
pretty ridiculously big so I'm not going
to be able to use them but basically
what you want to do is just measure what
the width of your finish wall is going
to be and pick a screw that's going to
seat into this noggin quite well so
you've got a nice strong fixing for your
toilet there so I'm gonna get these
drilled and then we'll dry test this
without putting the boards on and then
once we know it's definitely in the
right place then we can board this and
put the uPVC board not
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
third time lucky in other words the
template so if you want to use the
template put it up for some sort of idea
of where the balls gonna be and then
trying to narrow to get it in the right
place or what I probably would have done
in hindsight is measure your center
basically the bottom has got these two
little grooves here
which sits inside of this middle part
here saw if you can get the distance
from the top of the pond to the bottom
of this lip here and then if you've got
the top of your pond when it's sat in
place you're going to measure down on
this button a cm distance and then drill
your hall or this middle Hall is the
right one for me
so I'm going to drill pre-drill the two
corresponding holes and then we can get
this board of new pjc aligned and then
toilets up in place and then we can
start looking at getting the bar a mixer
in silicon the middle and the fly it
with you BBC shooting on the ceiling
extract the fun finish light in deep
sorry I think I've been a video board
PSV I love doing is screw the bucket on
on the back here and then obviously
straighten the door and drilled the
outside horse or I'm gonna take this off
now
once the boards are on you can just
screw put a little self tap and
through these holes and then
we have the polls on inside to fix this
a little bracket to just to sure you put
the piece of ply for the buck here
that's just a simple rectangle she
basically put to get this open and BC
just place the board up and just gonna
mark around this square which is going
to be the opening for the chemicals part
to pull out off so mark this up cut this
square out transfer that onto the uPVC
board and then cut it out on that as
well and when we stick that on there be
a nice opening there and I will come up
the toilet I'll be able to pull out
quite nicely so what I want to do that
now get this plywood stuck on with the
uPVC panel and then we'll be getting
some ways well he's the board with the
square cut out that's the length of it
cut it in or one complete piece or a lot
of piecing so I'm just using scrap bits
of all fly and let's get this cut out
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[Applause]
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[Applause]
my love
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so just connecting the electrics up for
the toilet flush and this has got a
four-way block on so basically these two
why is here one the brown one the blue I
wanted to connect the positive and
negative nightly show or these ones
before must just be a loop or the
instructions aren't the best obviously
positive and negatives all you need
anywhere so then we're going to connect
into there and then connect this to the
water feed and then that's the toilet in
I just need to fly off the back of here
and then create create or burnin here
you are
yeah you're on YouTube now look see how
you head Doggett shy
[Music]
so I've just connected the electric and
water feeds up to the toilet and
basically on the bracket on the wall
here you just want to get it near an
offer it needs to be put your finger in
a find where the little slot is in the
middle laying it up with the middle of
the bracket and then just push this push
the actual system up to the wall so the
rubber seal depresses and then once
you've pushed it in as far as you can
obviously push in on down at the same
time sort of clips into the actual
bracket at the back is or you can see
where the rubbers actually came off on
there uPVC so that's just gonna need a
quick wipe down and then you can see a
little gap there at the bottom so I
might have to get the silicon going in
here just to sell it and that last cup
ouple and then a little cup at the CM at
the other side and the same place and
then the shower tray
or the toilet is sealed up I've seen
people put and be just looking around
the underside of the toilet before they
sit it in place um and I bother doing
that I don't think it's necessary these
lips are over the top and I can't see
the water claim and open and out the
bottom of the tree but when of use a
shower I'll take this back door off and
have a check underneath once this tree
is out the way to see if there's any
water that's sitting in underneath if
needs be I can always take this out it
isn't silicon in any way off or from
shape or form and I can give it a test
so I'm gonna hook up the pump now to see
if this seal is actually sailed and
sated properly and then once we've got
electric we can give this bad lad a test
oh this is inside of the stood wall
where the shower riser is actually gonna
be mounted so I thought I put these two
bits of video together as you can see
I've just got the shower riser out there
I'm deciding where I wanted to sit which
was as far over into the corner as
possible and I wanted the shower heads
to be R with a rise up Mironov twitching
the seeming sore once I'd get in the
position for that I measured up and then
just put the relevant noggins in and
then that is where I'm gonna attach the
shower eyes too after all is done as you
can see here I have recorded the
measurements and measured away from the
actual end of the stood wall and that's
where our nor where to drill for this
actual riser to be fitted
after that it's secure civ just
following the measurements that you've
got recorded fitnah shall rise it and
then once a shall rise as fit as you
can't get your bar a mixer in there and
then you can hang your showerhead for
the first time after that it's a case of
fit in your bar mixer you want yourself
a good adjustable spanner or one that
suit the size of the that's actually
going to be screwed onto there the hard
part is done now all the stuffs in the
wall and they're just a case of
tightening down on the front that is the
last of the wall boards on I'm just
going to use this same stuff to clad the
door up as well a hummed 100% figured
out how I'm going to do that boss it's
just the Clutton to go on just going to
use tongue and groove cladding on the
ceiling so fit the shower real viously
worked out what the centers were before
I actually put this wall together and I
recorded the measurement in my four and
saw I knew how many centimeters from
this or millimeters from this wall it
was and how many millimeters from the
tree it was and that's fixed nice and
securely on a button that is buried in
that wall so yep just fix the front of
the mixer top on and obviously the
showerhead to see what it's going to
look like so peeps just got this old
shower door which has got decent seals
on it and it's got a hinge system didn't
get on video taking the frame off from
the outside obviously just four screws
so a lot a look at it and I think I
might be able to do a chop shop job on
this the only thing that's going to be a
bit of a pier now is this is glass and
obviously the door is too big for the
organ what is in there the Mormont's or
our puppeteer the
Beadon seal old from the outside when I
have to get rid of this glass and then
get some perspex which is the same
thickness as a glass to replace it and
then hopefully the seal what I've taken
out should fall back in so just gonna
take this frame out from out inside the
glass chop it down to the width that I
want and then I need to order some
perspex or that'll be a few years down
the line but I'm gonna make a start on
this today so if you're going to
retrofit the shower door like this the
first thing you want to do is make sure
that the opening is square so just
measured up that wasn't square was out
by five mils so I've just took this
button button button off not you're
gonna use a button top and bottom and
I'm just gonna leave these walls open
cuz there's no need to have them this is
just gives a step or the actual shower
door to step into and the button at the
top gives it something to fix in a
decent and I can just fix into these
side walls through the frames or yeah
you want to make sure it's square wasn't
square was all by five mil so I've just
took this bottom button off button
button off and cleaned it down or laying
that down five mil fixed up like in
clear and now I'm going to measure the
side trim them other ones was actually
sit on the outside of the frame the bit
that said top and bottom actually screw
in from the outside so you want to cut
down with gentle ones Ally and all the
way to the outside if you know what I
mean so if it's you should hop and
bottom button you want to cut them first
if it's your side button them so you
want to cut them first so I'm gonna cut
them to length see walk up I've got in
the middle caught me top and bottom for
him and then we'll bore from there with
the door
so just cutting down the outside for him
to lengthen with here when the whole
show was dis man I'll give the better
good clean as is it just come from a
yard and it was full of modern cloths or
once I do not just want to piece the
shower back together it is worth Norden
I didn't have a problem with the outside
frame but the inside door and putting
the door and the frame together did have
to do it at one or two times and I would
advise to take note of how the shower
door is actually put together if you are
actually going to be retrofitting one as
sometimes they're not as plain and
simple as you think especially when
hinges are involved or worth doing a
little bit of due diligence at first and
save you a bit of time in the long run
after that as you can see just dry
fitting the outside frame here I would
advise you to give yourself just a quick
Noord
if you're doing the same retrofitting
little tip these threads see what the
screws actually screw into if you've
made a cut the circular bar that you
actually screw into won't be threaded so
if you thread that with a screw first
before you start screwed together see if
you're stripping the screw head or cross
thread and and just make your life a bit
easier
[Music]
so at this point the door that actually
hinges on the outside frame has been
cooked down you want to keep all the
parts to one side make sure you don't
lose anything basically the width for
your cut for the outside frame should in
essence be the same as the coat for the
width of the doors or should be able to
measure what you've taken off the width
of the outside frame and take the same
off the door that's how I went about it
and it worked well if you look closely
they're just at the left-hand side right
at the front of the plywood table on the
front of the table you can see two
pieces of off cuts one of them is from
the outside frame and one of them is
from the door and they are the same
length yet obviously make sure you do
all your measurement measure and measure
again before you cut this down because
if you've getting this from a
reclamation yard or something like that
you are going to only have one chance
for this quarter good look right the
door rim dropped down
[Music]
constructed or just matter the
mainframe Fitness inside on these pivots
here these pivots and then we will see
whether it works saw about the frame
resized
an absolute nightmare to get back
together little bit I'll advise take
portal you do it but get there in the
end
and just gonna make some adjustments
basically this box section here this is
the normally sit inside of whatever
screen or wall that you've got sitting
but what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna nip
the backlog off both sides and then I'm
gonna sit basically a button inside of
the half half boxy and then I put a
screw through from this side from the
front and then the front will be
overlapped by wood this is obviously
looking a bit wonky and stuff at the
minute but this is all getting taken
apart to put the perspex or the cut
glass back in there
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[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
right peeps the shower frame is fish now
temporarily in place on just put a screw
basically in each corner so happy with
our shouldn't robbing and shooting so I
want to show you how it basically fixed
it in got the button square button along
the back you can see this part on the
front I have them cut off
so this one is that wide and I've just
caught the log off that side so
basically the front of that wing there
is just screwed straight into that
button and it's exactly the same on the
other side so basically come in the
shower now we've got that there so
obviously what I'm going to do is take
the free remote got some uPVC square
edging which will go along here and into
this little millimeter gap here
I'll just silicone that on so that we
avoid in the back of there but will be
plenty original and I'm also going to
put square uPVC edging on top on the
foot and down here so the you VPC edge
you know over the lip of the shower tray
here so there's no drama of any water
getting underneath here and then there
will that will go underneath the
framework of the shower tray as well and
then I'll just put a bead of silicon
wherever it needs to be put and on the
inside here the button would button and
you aluminium frame work here actually
flush with each other so I've just
gotten 45 millimeter flat new PVC strip
and I'm just going to silicon a big
strip up there all the way up to the
actual framework here but I won't be
doing that until the shower shower
screen has been fit and it is actually
in place for the last time as obviously
it's gonna be overlapping and I'll be
putting the silicon down the back there
so I want to take the shower
free them out and get these ones
cluttered off and then we're gonna look
with getting this spread of perspex
sheeting put in here to replace the
glass and then we laughing yeah right
peeps so as you can see the new PVC
stripping is all for the ledge now I
couldn't get it there water hung the
trier forced that's not a big deal I'm
just gonna run a bead of silicon along
this cup here put a blob in there
because there's actually end grain in
the end of there put a little bit of
silicon and these gaps here obviously
love you about the strip that goes along
there but happy with that all that edge
is sealed in nicely
I see you then just beat him put Bobby
silicon in the top of there and now
fitting all these gaps it looking all
this in and get the extractor fitted and
then with pretty much there once the
doors done happy just doing the bathroom
ceiling here with this new PVC
tongue-and-groove klodin or basically
use this collar to draw around for the
extractor fan just cut the hole a little
bit bigger the call of the cores on the
top of al cover these gaps in Rome -
yeah and then this is the hole cut out
for the 12-volt lights or we want to cut
the remainder for the ceiling and then
PC to get these together and I'll stick
them up with the adhesive all in one
piece
so you might have heard us mention about
getting the shower door sprayed or just
want to give a shout-out to sprayer tech
joinery they are the firm that has
spread forth the shower door in the
kitchen for our van der Meers and job
very very high quality pins and very
hard-wearing
and the getting the kitchen looking very
very nice and also the shower dal on
brand you know saw I'm gonna post a link
to their page in the description you
need any similar work do and check them
out and I would highly recommend so I
said I was going to fit the
tongue-and-groove cladding all in one
piece I did try that board didn't work
open too easy and found it easier to
watching piece by piece or just do yours
whichever whichever which where it makes
it easier for yourself basically saw
hide a million and one jobs to do so I
hadn't really thought too much about how
I was gonna do the shower screen but
after measuring up with the glass that
came out of there it turned out that it
was about four millimeters in width or
depth however you want to see it and
this uPVC cladding is actually 2
millimeters a piece or what I did was
measured up the size of the screen and
I've just caught me two pieces exactly
the same out of the actual uPVC Club and
then after that just proceeded to stick
them together with some premium adhesive
[Music]
so I bought the board's took together
now take off the protective film and you
just want to hug your inside door free
and fit together and then just basically
remove one corner screw so you can slop
the board in make sure it's fit nork
here then I remove the shaitaan' and put
a strip or line of silicone or white
white silicon in side of the actual 3m
slot just to give that a little bit of
an extra seal and then once I've done
that I refit the shower screen put the
frame back together and then you just
see is wiping off any excess silicon
here and then I start that the
painstaking job of putting this sealer
back in this job probably took me about
an hour and a half possibly a little bit
more and I can't exactly remember but
peeing stick and job but it was worth it
in the end literally just had to put it
in bit by bit and really take your time
on this and obviously with the frame
being a different size I had to make
small incisions to fit the corners and
you're just gonna have to suck it and
see and try and figure out we do that
yourself
pretty pretty straightforward just gotta
persevere
so as you can see in the middle of the
actual shower screen there I've just
pulled two board clumps and I've linked
them together because one of them
couldn't reach from one side of the
other and when I was just putting the
footing of that to a clump on the side I
was just slipping off so I just knocked
out a couple of bits of wood there and
then clears them on the side of the
shower screen just to Kalama together to
stop it from born because the screen was
actually falling out until I got the
shower seal in there and fort was sent
off to sprayer tech to get sprayed I
just masked off the actual door seals
with masking tape to stop them getting
is inside nice and secure so just use
the hole saw on shower three so this
metal grid and just use the hole saw
that is the size for this grid to sit
through so put a big bead of silicon run
the all the way around here before it
gets pressed in so you basically just
wanted that big so that drops through
and then from the underside of the van
that's where this comes in with the
rubber gasket on the top that will come
all the way up through the metal chassis
at the bottom through the insulation
through the two bits of plywood and then
that'll clunk to the underside of the
shower tree and then this will go on top
and the scrubber bore through so I
haven't got a horse or that is the right
size for this or I'm gonna use a jig saw
to cook this round and then want some
just through the metal chassis I'll use
a wood or saw to cut something that is a
similar size to this and then I'm just
going to have to be careful with that
not to go too far opened or through the
shower tree so I'll just take a little
bit out at a time you can feel a little
bit of relief when you get through each
boards or I shouldn't drill through the
underside of the shower tray
then it's just a case of silicon and
these up and then putting them together
and putting the screw in and then we're
gonna look at a touch in our waste pipe
so let's get that done so just a quick
Nord I did see there that I was going to
use the jig saw and underside of the van
to get through the metal did try this
but I couldn't get a jigsaw turn so I
did have to go and buy some all saws
that were slightly bigger than the
actual waste itself but as Jen knows all
too well I never turn down the
opportunity to buy new tools so as
you've just seen there I just measured
the center of the actual waste
pre-drilled shower tree with a pilot
Hall then use a 38 millimeter hole saw
to make the cut for the actual metal
grit to sit inside off and then
proceeded to drill down through the
insulation just sort I'd Spears to sit
nicely in the trier there once it do not
put a good bead of mold resistant white
silicon and the actual grid itself give
it a quick clean down and then just
pushed it down into the tree after that
put a bead around the actual waste
itself in between the West and rubber
gasket then another bead on top of the
rubber gasket and then I needed
somebody's help at this point and
somebody under the van just called and
we as for me while I was putting the
screw in the actual grid that just makes
it all nipped up and tighten together
once you do not you can wipe away any
excess silicon with is smooth to the
inside of the tree
[Music]
quick one
Roy you're wonderful for right just a
quick one on this wall here for the
outer shower basically just constructed
that little spice rack and I'm gonna use
nine mil ply two-ply line this structure
here and then it's also the trim is
going to oval up these screws here hand
a little bit of the frame all the way
around and then I'm gonna cut the door
out and that's just going to be hinged
to allow access for the toilet so I'm
gonna try and cook this whole thing out
of one sheet of ply so basically I've
measured the whole square of the ply and
I've cut that out over there and then
just piece by piece get not a little
millimeters and millimeter measurement I
have transferred the pencil lines over
to this bit of ply so as you can see
where this is scribbled out here after
scribble there that's the spice rack and
down here there is the toilet door which
is a square there obviously bear in mind
that everything is in reverse and then
you can see here and to the bottom that
is the shower door sore obviously this
bit that's coming out with the shower
door these corners are going to be
joined so you have got a plunge your
you've got a plunge the saw down into
the board so just take a nice and steady
when you go in and that is what I've
just done for this court here these ones
are the close to the edge what I
would've advised is to use your rips or
guides and then plunge the saw down with
the guide you can also do it on these
bottom edges here might after three on
this top edge II Airport if you just
make sure you saw a fairly severe drop
it down as slowly as possible and if you
see it just off-center a little bit just
to just it it's not going to make
mmm probably only make a millimeter a
difference which you can get it where
with and apart from that I'm gonna get
this quarter and then we'll see if the
pencil lines and measurements that I've
made a match up and whether it'll drop
straight in so like to see around the
spice rack
I wanted to quite wanted quite tight
here so there's no gaps bought around
the shower door if it's a little bit out
or a little bit in it doesn't really
matter because it was literally gonna be
white drawn here or anywhere so once the
flies on I'll just put a little bead of
white silicon down the scene just to
neaten all that up and I'll saw along
the bottom and also the toilet door it
doesn't matter if you're a little
millimeter in or a little millimeter out
because basically I've put the door in
the middle of these wood buttons or when
you open it up you're not going to be
able to tell the difference you know I
only put the need to be quite accurate
is this spice rack because it is going
to be permanently onshore and I want
apply quite tight into this or I'm in a
millimeter measured measuring and Mark
that and I'm gonna take the line off as
the wood sear so when I could I'm taking
the pencil line off and then that should
get me an even off millimeter perfect so
let's get this cut just one more thing I
didn't mentioned when you are plunging
your saw into a square and you're going
to be leaving the room in imply complete
around it you can only cut so far into
the corner and then the ply is gonna be
on an angle so you don't want to go over
where you need where your pencil line is
so you're going to have a little tab
there and with that I'm just going to
drop the jigsaw through the ply and just
give it a little movement up into the
corner just to neaten that open and the
draw the door and the squares that I
want out of there should drop out quite
nicely
[Music]
I can stay
so just a quick closeup on catch me
just a quick close-up on the corners as
you can see there is the little tag tags
of wood where the blade has been on the
upward motion so it's going to drop the
jigsaw down through the slot area and
just nip them off on every corner
no matter the shower door I'll finish
off the toilet door and then the spice
rack and then we'll give it a dry fit
[Music]
so that's a template caught out I'm
tried as in place yet sore moment of
truth and we'll see if this fits in sore
not perfect but I'm happy with how it
looks just need to take a little bit off
of this corner here and then as you can
see there's a small got down there and
little gap on the side here but not too
bad might just put a bead of the brown
caulking along here just to dress it up
and then on the corners I've got some
uPVC corner trim to bridge from the uPVC
trim here round the corner and I'll just
finish off these cabinets here once
these spots have touched in and then
we'll just fit the door I'm just going
to surface model the hinges and then
I'll just have a little touch to keep up
from coming up and bought happy with
that I've stressed the door up nicely
I've got a full wall here to do whatever
we want with the side of what yet board
we're gonna get this out nip a little
bit off and get it fit and then I'll
just use a ping pong with some small
pins around the areas and that would be
job done
[Music]
so just a quick naughtier before I
actually place the board up against the
stood wall I just marked where the
members were on the area between the
toilet door and the spice rack just so
I'll get some pins in there and make
sure that that wasn't flopping about
either wanted or not just proceeded to
fit the toilet door basically the bit of
ply that I cut out of there originally
is the bit that I used for the door and
the width of the blade is the perfect
amount to make sure the door opens and
closes nice and small so that's a
bathroom video or complete hope that
helped you out might have been a bit
long-winded but or feel helped complete
novices or beginners old and thanks for
watching comment with audio replies if
you enjoyed it or any tips that you
could give to anybody else if you liked
it and it helped you out like and
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you in the next video of people first
[Music]