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all right well I
went on their ice machine and of course
I can't leave well enough alone so I
walked around just
rinsing off condensers checking
everything out
rinsed off the rack really quick came
back around to check all the sight
glasses and noticed that this beer
walking compressor is off on thermal
overload
I'm hoping it's thermal overload it was
red hot the contactor was pulled in I
didn't have a meter with me yet so I
just shut it off
and uh finished hosing the condenser and
then I'm going to check to see if the
windings are open or what's going on
with it now this one
I recently just put a new fan motor and
fan blade right here this is the one
where the Hub was going upside down
backwards weird
so anyways this had gone off on thermal
overload then too
but I reset it
I've got some gauges so like I said I'm
going to jump in here and see what we
can figure out I put some service gauges
on it we're shut off power breaker
should be off I'll check in a minute but
we're almost equalized out on our gauges
if we come right here I have the meter
set to continuity or tone
see
see right now it's toning out okay so
let's go right here we should I know the
wires are still on there but this is a
crude way we're open
let's go here
open
right there and then last but not least
open
now this is a three-phase compressor we
should have an equal resistance across
all three of those so
um I've got my compressor cooling tool
right here
I'm gonna hook up the water hose to it
get that compressor cooled off and hope
that the overload resets and then we'll
watch the thing operate the condenser
wasn't that dirty but man this equipment
this is our second heat wave of the year
it's about 100 degrees in the shade you
can see right on there and stuff's just
falling off the map so just then they
don't do routine maintenance so you know
everything's kind of really worn out
just running water across the head of
the compressor at a nice steady Pace
this is the uh cool presser tool from
sepco you can pick them up at uh
truetechtools.com to use my offer code
big picture you get a discount on
checkout on majority of the items on
their website so and it also gives me a
small commission when you do that so
it's a great way to help support the
channel but yeah these things good they
come in clutch when you really really
need them to help cool off a compressor
because they keep the flow across it
nice and even and then you don't have to
worry about getting bags of ice or
anything in theory I'm checking on the
load side of the contactor power's
turned off at the breakers got our meter
set to tone so it should tone out when
the overload and the compressor resets
so we're just going to let the water
continue to run
and uh I'm going to finish working on my
ice machine so my condenser is right
over there and I was actually just
cleaning the condenser just getting done
with that and then came over here the
ice machine I didn't really get video
footage of it I started to but then I
got distracted but that one just had a
bad water float and it needs a cube
guide It's a hoshizaki machine so we're
gonna let this keep flowing hopefully it
cools off all right it's been running it
should be a reset I just came back over
to it right now so let's have a look we
come over here
and we've reset but I'm not going to
stop we're going to let it run for about
another five minutes trying to cool off
the compressor a little bit longer just
to make sure it stays cool and then
we'll try to restart it and see where
the problem lies I'm pretty sure it lies
just it's hot and it had a slightly
dirty condenser but
um
we will see once we start it up oh I
took my alligator leads off it ran for a
few more minutes let's go ahead and I
just got my meter on
ohms resistance
so about 1.1 1.2 let's keep going down
the line make sure everything's nice and
sturdy in there 1.1 okay and then last
but not least we're checking this is a
three-phase compressor so we're checking
all three leads should be somewhat equal
yeah 1.1 okay so all three are reset
we're gonna go ahead and turn this guy
on and uh hope that nothing shorts out
or blows up because that rack has some
water in it but
it's inevitable that happens I mean it's
meant to be that way because it you know
can rain on top of it and stuff so
all right one two three please don't
blow up
okay
it's running I can hear it
compressor's pumping
so we're gonna let it run for a bit you
don't want to shut it off you just want
to let it run and let it cool itself
we'll get over there and check voltages
and everything here in just a minute
suction pressure is coming up
it's a really high suction pressure on
this guy right now
this guy's under a load huh
that compressor might need a pressure
control adjustment the way it sounded
when it shut down
[Music]
suction lines getting cool but it's kind
of warm right now
discharge Line's hot I'm a little
worried because it might go off on
overload again
just give it a minute we gotta let it
run let's come over here and test
voltage see what kind of voltage we have
coming into the contactor
it's going to be low
we're a 208 three-phase system here
we're seeing 200 volts
200 volts I'm checking across the phases
on the line voltage 202 let's check the
outlet of the contactor 200
200
202. so seems like the contactor is
working good not really seeing a voltage
drop across the contactor now
everything's good on that we'll open it
up in a little while but like I said we
need to let it run right now
um and just uh
hopefully start cooling off that
compressor
okay suction pressure is coming down
that's a good sign it's about 77 still
it's high but all right we're gonna let
it run for a little bit longer we're
running against right around 100 degrees
right now I mean things are looking
pretty darn good it's Side Glass just
cleared up
it's a good sign
looks like we have
oil in the oil sight glass down there
it's kind of hard to see
um
we've got a cold suction coming back I'm
gonna go get some clamps so we can check
compressor superheat again I suspect a
lot of the dirt that I just washed off
this condenser was the cause I suspect
that this thing was going off on high
pressure it's got an auto reset pressure
control so if it does that enough it
will go off on thermal overload
eventually and that would be my best
guess but I'm going to watch it for a
little bit longer we're running right
around 14.5 amps I mean that's not bad
for this guy this guy's not I think it's
rated to run at like 15 or something rla
it's coming down
suction Line's cold I'm having a hard
time with my temperature clams it's one
of those things where Wireless probes
can be a pain in the butt there's
something interfering with my probe
because I at this particular restaurant
I noticed these problems if you try to
use wireless tools on the roof I don't
think it's those satellite dishes
usually they have like a
point-to-point communication one
somewhere around here that always messes
that's my assumption that's what messes
with my stuff it's not that because
that's not connected I don't think those
are connected to anything I don't know
something's interfering with what I'm
doing up here there's some sort of
Wireless interference
um
so I'm gonna have to find a wire
temperature clamp in my van connect onto
this guy but we got a cold suction like
it's fine I I know the super 8's not too
high coming back to the compressor
um sight glass is still clear right
there oil levels a tad on the high side
I got in there with a flashlight it's
above three quarters but I'm gonna let
it run for a little bit I'm not going to
try to go do anything too crazy right
now
um I mean saturation temp doesn't look
too bad compared to ambient temperature
it's kind of fluctuating because there's
a breeze but it's about 100 degrees up
here it's pretty consistent temperature
what we're reading right now so yeah
we're really not looking bad we're only
like about 20 degrees over Ambien as far
as condensing Tim and again I think it
was just all for me cleaning the
condenser if I made it operate a lot
better when we start going through this
we're going through our second heat wave
of the year I think we're supposed to
hit like 105 to 110 this weekend and I I
foresee myself I'm on call that I'll be
doing this kind of stuff just cooling
things off rinsing condensers resetting
overloads resetting pressure controls
it's just how it goes when uh
when we get these heat waves you know
but you know it's always best that you
just you still don't just assume you
know we're checking everything out we're
watching it operate the box is at 42
degrees now so it's coming down and
temperature feels better in there
um
contactor seems fine voltage there's no
voltage drop across the contactor
current seems okay right we've been
running for a little bit still things
are looking good not seeing anything
crazy I had to go old school here so I
got a temperature clamp we got a 38
degree suction line saturation
temperature what is the math there that
I just did it's like uh
15 degrees super heat uh compressor
superheat so this guy's still pulling
down so I expect you know the expansion
valves being a little aggressive right
now
um but yes it looks like are we pumping
down maybe at the moment we might be
pumping down
this is good yeah actually it's good to
watch these things pump down if that's
what's happening because uh
sometimes they can be overcharged and
when they pump down they can go off on
thermal overload
but I don't think that's the case here
we're just watching
crazy right now
still got a hot discharge line
looks like we're flashing right now so I
don't know if it's pumping down or what
just happened here
I think that's what it's doing I think
it's pumping down
get my amp clamps doing over here
come over here
check this guy
yeah I think it's pumping down because
drop down to 11 amps
that's what it looks like
looks like we're getting there
PSI
see what this guy cuts out at this is
another good thing because we can
actually see if it's set right
so yeah we're flashing as it's what's
happening is the liquid line solenoid
valve on the liquid line is shutting and
the unit is slowly pumping down and
let's make sure it's not a defrost thing
no it's not in defrost
I mean it seems okay but it's taken a
little while to pump down for sure
that's a little odd so let's pull this
off
have a look at what the pressure control
and it just shut off so it was like
right getting ready to shut off and I
whacked it so it made it turn off but I
mean it doesn't seem too too bad maybe I
need to make a slight adjustment to the
pressure control
the other thing too is I'm going to wait
for it to turn back on because I want to
see what it cuts in at too as far as the
cut out pressure it looks like it's
approximately set for the head pressure
the um
maybe about right about 400 PSI give or
take but these things are never 100
accurate on these uh mechanical pressure
control so so it just turned on it cut
in uh in the mid 30s like 35 PSI and
it's running
so we're gonna watch it for another
cycle I'd like to see it go through
another cycle and pump down again I did
make an adjustment to the cutout
pressure on this guy so I'd like to see
this thing shut off if possible
so we're gonna watch it for a little bit
longer
it's a waiting game when it comes to
this because I don't know what caused
the compressor to go up on thermal so
trying to give it a few minutes of on
and off Cycles to see if you know it
does anything funny for me right here we
go so this guy should be cutting out
around 25
you know what
I'm not hearing something good in that
compressor it sounds like it's bypassing
when it's pumping down
it is
I don't know if you guys can hear this
or not but this thing's bypassing
internally
yup this thing is totally bypassing
so this compressor it's like the uh
internal pressure relief is messed up
it's starting to make this weird
hissing sound
and it's not off on thermal
and it's not getting too low either 24
PSI isn't bad there it goes
it was about to bypass again like to go
off on complete internal bypass
so by me hitting that I shut it down but
yeah this thing's got a problem
something's wrong inside that compressor
man this is not what I want on a
there's something internally happening
in that compressor that sucks
I gotta try to find a compressor
stinks man these guys not doing
maintenance this stuff just dies quick
it's nuts again I don't know what's
coming across on camera but I can hear
it like internally bypassing as it's
trying to pump down
to make it a weird sound it's really
weird all right well this is a crappy
turn of events so something internally
is happening when the compressor tries
to pump down I can hear it like slightly
bypassing and it's not pumping down
efficiently
um I made adjustments to the pressure
control
there is not one of these compressors
anywhere near me the closest is
Bakersfield California and by the I
can't get there that's a good you know
four or five hours away in traffic
um if there was no traffic it'd only be
like three hours away but yeah that's
not happening right now so I got to
figure this out and the one that's in
Bakersfield California is not a
roto-lock so I'd have to convert it
which I can do because I got rotor lock
adapters
um so I made adjustments and I got it to
basically
adjust a little bit higher to where it
cuts out a little higher than I want it
to
um
and I'm hoping that'll get me by I don't
know how this is going to turn out this
week I'm I'm gonna make some more phone
calls right now I might have to Next Day
Air Compressor if I'm gonna have to Next
Day Air and I want to know if I can get
a roto-lock one
um make it even easier because this
would be a simple swap out front seat
front seat twist the rotor locks off put
the new one in but yeah something
internally is happening with this guy
so I'm gonna watch it a few more Cycles
I'm still making a few more phone calls
but yeah fun stuff for me right so these
guys have
check valves in them
I believe right here in the top and I'm
wondering if the check valve's failing
like that's what's going on inside this
compressor because the issue only seems
to happen when it pumps down
man this sucks nobody has this so I'm
hoping that by adjusting it higher
getting the cut out higher that it'll
limp through until we can get this it
wasn't set too low I went through the
Copeland AE bulletin and I believe it
says something like no lower than like
15 psi or something like that I think is
what I just let me see
yeah so the Copeland AE bulletin says 17
PSIG minimum 450 PSIG maximum is the cut
out pressure for the pressure control
um and it wasn't set any lower than that
but whether or not the pressure control
has been failing and trying to go lower
you know that's another thing to be said
because these pressure controls have a
high failure rate
so yeah I'm just waiting for it to do
another pump down to see if the
adjustments that I made on it are any
better all right so here's the test
looks like we're pumping down again so
should be cutting out somewhere around
30 PSI cut out so let's see if that
works
because I don't think you guys can hear
this
it starts to bypass again let's see
come on baby cut out cut out
so it's starting to bypass so I can hear
it
come on baby
shut off
you can do it
[Music]
huh
it's pressure control's jacked up
pressure control is not working that's
what's wrong pressure control is bad and
it's been running and trying to shut
down and it can't
gosh darn it
that stinks
I gotta figure this out now I think I
can get it by like it'll pump down to
like 30 PSI if I can get the pressure
control to work
the problem is
I have to recover the charge to change
the pressure control on the high side
which is kind of stinks all right I got
an ugly solution to my problem come on
over here
what I did was just installed another
pressure control temporarily
put in about 40 PSI
so we're going to let it run again and
watch it pump down so I left this one
connected and here's why I don't want to
have to recover this entire charge right
now just to change the pressure control
because I'm going to end up changing
this compressor so in the meantime I
just moved this pressure control left it
hooked up
put service tees right here and we have
to leave these in the mid-seated
position sorry we have to leave these
stems right there in the mid-seated
position we'll make sure we put caps on
I close the packings this will get us by
and then when we change the compressor
we'll be able to get rid of that because
we'll recover the gas I just don't want
to have to recover it just to do the
pressure control temporarily so I'm
going to watch it go through a cycle
right now and pump down and make sure
that it pumps down okay and then
hopefully we'll be able to just order
the compressor and it did it it just
pumped down really quick
um
shut down at about 30 PSI
and see I need a little bit more of a
differential so I might have to adjust
it a little bit more but let's see it's
not turning back on it's going to turn
back on around 40 something PSI now I
don't really like these pressures but in
the summertime I don't think it's going
to be a problem in the winter time
because of how cold it gets outside you
don't want that cut in that
in the 40s because it could be a problem
it's looking like we're okay right now
yeah it's looking like we're okay so I
think this is going to buy me some time
now this is all just temporary because I
don't want to recover the gas and these
valves right here when you front seat
this all that you do is um shut off the
flow from here to here but it's still
when you front seat this this still gets
the pressure from in the compressor this
still gets the pressure from in the
compressor but this one right here
always has pressure no matter if you
front seat this back seat this this is
always going to have pressure so you got
to recover the charge to connect to this
port so this way I have these just
cracked to where there's pressure at
this all the time there's a Schrader in
the top there's a Schrader right here
there's no straighter here no Schrader
here we leave them cracked I put the
caps on tight and this will get us by
yeah we're doing good and it's not
turning back on so I'm waiting for it to
turn back on just so I can see where it
cuts in at and then hopefully this will
get us buy us some time so I can get a
new compressor because yeah nobody has
them locally all right cross our fingers
seems to be okay cut in about 44 43 PSI
it's cutting out about 30 PSI again
something's failing inside that
compressor so it won't allow it to pump
down properly without like bypassing so
I think some sort of a check valve in
there
um so I think this will get us by right
now I think the cause of it was probably
the low pressure control failing and not
shutting off where it was supposed to
because when I tried to adjust it it was
just acting really wonky so hopefully
this will get us by and like I said I'm
going to try to order the rotoloc
compressor now because I think it was
bought me a couple days or so hopefully
well we are back it's been a while we've
been busy we brought our entire van
got someone with me we're going to
recover the charge out of this guy get
this compressor swapped out I was not
able to get a roto lock compressor so I
have to use roto-lock adapters which is
fine it was really hard to get this
compressor I have to have it shipped in
there's nobody local in Southern
California which is in yeah which is
huge like normally we have compressors
all the time even Copeland was a couple
weeks out so we're going to get it
recovered swapped out pressure control
situation cleaned up and we'll take you
along all right we are going to recover
um
so I was interesting will here just said
that the refrigerant smells funny
um we decided to go ahead and recover
and put new refrigerant in this uh this
compressor could be on the verge of a
catastrophic failure we know that
internally the pressure relief is a
problem so the overheating inside that
compressor could have damaged something
if the refrigerant smells funny that's
why we're going to just go ahead and
change the refrigerant dryer whole
compressor and be done with it now I've
talked about this before these valves
right here where this and I think I
talked about it earlier in the video but
this right here never gets shut off no
matter what the position of this valve
this always has pressure so when
pressure controls are connected to those
the only way to do the high side is to
recover the refrigerant because if you
pump it down at the receiver it will
shut off the flow to the low side but it
does not shut off the flow between the
compressor and the receiver it's only on
the outlet of the receiver to the inlet
of the compressor so you have to recover
to do these and there is no schraders in
these fittings and these pressure
controls right here don't even accept
Schrader compressors so this is just how
this has to be it's just a waiting game
at this point we've done everything that
we can we're just waiting for the
recovery it's pulled out 16 pounds so
far
um
pressure is getting pretty high but
we'll see I think we'll make it uh
system pressures are getting there
um we've got you know everything
unhooked that we can have unhooked we
can't unhook that pressure control until
we're avoid of refrigerant we've
unhooked the compressor the dryer is
already a flare so we're just putting a
new flare in there
I mean again we're just trying to stay
moving you know we've already got all
our materials and everything up here so
it's going good so far I keep these Roto
lock adapters so you can make any
compressor or rotor lock with these
essentially so when we pull the rubber
plugs out
can you pull that out right there when
we pull the rubber plug out
they make them so it goes in or over
this one's just going to go in and then
we just Silver solder it on and we'll be
good I have like a box of valves and I
always keep those we were just
discussing we're going to try to get
these on everybody's trucks because
sometimes you can't find a rotoloc
compressor you're not as lucky you know
when we're brazing dissimilar Metals I
use high silver content I use 56 now you
don't have to some people use the 45 I
like 56 I like the roll some people like
the flex coated rods it's all good
whatever floats your boat the thing I
don't like about the flex coated rods is
when you leave them in your torch for a
long time the flux becomes brittle and
then you go to use it and it starts
flaking off or falling off because I
don't braise
just similar metals like every day so it
just goes bad and it gets beat up so I
prefer standard Silver solder so we
flexed everything nice and good and
cleaned it that's the biggest thing with
silver solder is cleanliness this one
right here is going to be an easier
brace because it's a female fitting and
it's going over right but this one is a
male fitting so it's a little bit more
tricky to get this braised on just
because you don't you have to heat it up
really hot
but then you know it's just kind of
tricky to get in there but we'll get it
it'll all be good all right Silver
solder can be tricky it doesn't look the
prettiest the the key is the Heat and
the cleanliness okay so we haven't
cooled anything off but we got it to
flow we're gonna cool it off we'll once
it cools a little bit we'll run some
sandpaper on it and make it look pretty
just be careful when you are using
Silver braising solder that you're not
getting it on the threads because you'll
get it so hot sometimes it'll go on the
threads and then the fittings ruined
once you get it on the threads
um we also put some of the heat blocking
Compound on there just to help to
protect the compressor just a little bit
all right we just finished with the
recovery I just closed the process port
on the gauges put the machine into Purge
mode so it's just pumping out as much of
the refrigerant out of the machine as
possible into the tank and uh we are
done now so we're going to take
everything off get the Roto locks off
and get the new compressor lifted in all
right now I like to use a little bit of
nylog right here now I know a lot of
people don't like to I like a dab on the
threads I like some on the O-ring the
roto-lock gasket and I like to put a
little bit on this nut to get it to spin
better now you can also use
Refrigeration oil on the net right there
but nylog will go in there just fine
just get it it doesn't take much on this
right there now adjust a little bit and
then just spin it and that's all you
need on that that just lubricates the
nut so it spins well
and then we'll put a little bit on the
gaskets right there we'll push the
gaskets in the roto-lock
uh Raceway right there and then we'll
get these guys threaded on
all right we are currently getting the
crankcase heater installed we did test
it it's in good shape we're going to
turn the gas ballast open turn the
vacuum pump on we're all hooked up I've
got
that was a rough start what the heck was
that about
um
something good
I've got a uh micron gauge over there
we'll go check on it in a few minutes so
we're just gonna let this run for a bit
and then uh keep hooking everything up
so we're getting there it's pulling down
we haven't even closed the gas ballast
yet we're going to let it pull down a
little bit more we got a new uh squirrel
and catch-all right here with the sight
glass it's flare installed
um
put a 16 cubic inch nice and good all
the information that you want on the
side right here
um
we're looking good so far so we're gonna
start cleaning up our messes
um that spoiling catch-all should help
to catch anything that's in the system
you know we were picking up a funny
smell now we didn't do an acid test but
we picked up a funny smell on the
refrigerant got spoiling quetzal just
the standard version is perfect for acid
okay they also make an HH version but
that's a high wax removal if you have
issues with wax or anything like that I
don't think we got to that point
we'll monitor it but everything's
looking good so far all right I think
that is pretty darn good for uh
for an old system that's got old
evaporatory coils I wouldn't be
surprised if there's some leaks in the
evaporator coils but we're gonna go and
shut off the vacuum pump and let it go
into a Decay test see how high it rises
as long as we don't get above a thousand
I'll be pretty comfortable with that
um but again I mean I wouldn't be
surprised if there's not small leaks in
the evaps too so let's see what happens
um we'll be uh getting ready to charge
it up too one thing that I am going to
do before I charge it up is we'll take
off the vacuum hoses valve these off put
my gauges on there and pull an
evacuation on the gauges and then that
way we got clean dry gauges for the
refrigerant now I have another guy here
with me today and I had to send him to
go get some more refrigerant because
together we don't have quite enough so
grab some of that and hopefully be
starting this up very soon we're looking
pretty good so far it's in Decay it's
about 519. according to the blue vac app
that you use it's saying that it's
passing the Decay test so it basically
takes a timer and
just a mathematical calculations to say
that you know the rate of Rise is so low
or something like that I don't know but
um yeah we're looking good on that so
I'm just pulling an evacuation on the
manifold right now and then I'm gonna
get ready to introduce some refrigerant
to the system what I did was I went and
turned off the breaker I had the breaker
on for the compressor doing the
evacuation so the solenoids and
everything were open so I turned it off
and we're hooked up just to the high
side we obviously pulled an evacuation
on the gauges you can see the low side's
still in a vacuum and I'm dumping in as
much of the 404 out of the heaviest drum
that I had
um I think together collectively we only
had like 17 pounds of refrigerant we
need like 25 so I'm going to dump in as
much as I can while I'm waiting for uh
my other guy to come back with the new
refrigerant which we'll only need a
couple pounds of but so so far it's
taken six pounds of refrigerant
[Music]
drinking it and it's thirsty for sure so
we're just going to keep dumping it in
and then we'll turn the compressor on
once it stops taking refrigerant on the
high side that way we're not on off with
a low pressure control kind of a thing
we're just putting it as much as it'll
take into the high side all right let's
uh hope this doesn't blow up
everything goes right I'm hoping we got
the phase rotation right
think we did
listen for it on Startup right now so
we're waiting for the temp control to
open they're just opened
see what happens when it starts
pressure's coming up
it's running in the right direction no
problems there you can tell by the sound
and I'm gonna go ahead and finish
charging as much of the refrigerant from
this cylinder and then we'll switch over
to that cylinder
compressor sounds good I like it
right on all right we're about done with
the second drama refrigerant all
together we've gotten about 18 pounds of
gas in this guy it's calling for 25.2
according to the manufacturer and that
includes the flooded charge uh they
actually have a data plate that tells
you everything on this unit so
um we're almost there my guy's almost
back with the refrigerant so we're just
about to tap this drum out and I'm just
again just trying to clean up so all
right at this point we're right at about
20 pounds of refrigerant my sight glass
is literally going from clear to
flashing clear to flashing so it's right
at that point so it's flashing at the
moment but then it'll clear up so what
that's telling me is that from this
point forward everything that we're
adding is our flooded charge for the
winter for the head pressure control
valve to work properly when the system's
operating okay five pounds of gas that
sounds about accurate on this so we're
gonna go ahead and put in that rest that
remainder of refrigerant that the
manufacturer is calling for and uh
everything should be good to go and we
are fully clear now on the sight glass
dude that's what I like about the
sporland see-all sight glasses is uh
that guy I adjusted on that pressure
control I think that compressor is our
next one I think there's something going
on in there it's working but it's uh
it's like it's
check valve is not working right or
something
um but uh I like these see all sight
glasses because uh they're just so big
you can see everything nice and neat
um we're looking good we're looking
really good this guy's coming down in
temperature it's currently just about
100 degrees outside 97 in the shade
um
we're looking pretty darn good we've got
about a 22 degree condensing temperature
over ambient which as long as I don't
see anything over 30 I'm not too
concerned we don't use the condensing
temp over ambient as like our charging
metric but we use it as a Vital sign
like I know that these condensers that I
work with most of the time should not
have anything more than a 30 degree
condensing temperature right the
saturated temperature of the refrigerant
over the ambient temperature my ambient
temperature in the shade it's about 96
degrees and we've got 121 degree
saturation temp so don't see a problem
with that uh Vapor saturation about 26
degrees I mean I would imagine that coil
the Box temp is probably in the 40s
right now so that doesn't seem too bad
to me everything's looking good
compressor is running good we're
definitely going to watch it satisfy so
we can make sure the pressure control is
set appropriately and I know that I saw
the cut in cut in around 30 something so
that's fine and we just want to make
sure the cut out isn't cutting out below
I believe the Copeland document I said
earlier in the video I think was 17 PSI
was the lowest they wanted this pressure
control set for and I think I set it for
20 something so we should be good to go
nice cold suction line coming back
everything looks good new pressure
control
all should be well on this one so at
this point we're kind of done wrapping
it up we're getting pretty cleaned up we
are going to give the customer the keys
and tell them to keep an eye on it all
right I cut the compressor open uh so I
saved you guys the agony of watching me
take a grinder but I just take a grinder
wheel I'm pretty good at where I need to
cut don't really damage too much every
once in a while I hit the side right
here but that's about it so pull this
thing out first thing I did was took all
the oil out found that the oil charge
was slightly overcharged I think this
called for like if I remember right this
is a zb30 kce so I think it was
1.9 or 1.8 liters and I think I pulled
out just over 2 liters of oil
so this was a replacement compressor
more than likely oil came back from the
evaporators that had been floating
through the system or something so
that's one thing to consider okay but
that I don't think was my main problem
remember what would happen was
I came up on the unit it was off on
thermal overload didn't know why it went
off on thermal Overload at first but
then I found that we had a failed low
pressure control okay
um so let's pull this apart and I'm
going to show you guys now one of the
most important things that I can tell
you is if you want to understand how
these compressors work
get the application engineering
bulletins okay this is AE bulletin right
here 84 1317 R15
so much valuable information inside here
okay so let me pull this apart and then
I'll go through a few different things
and tell you what I think happened here
first thing when I pulled this apart
look at the bottom of the muffler plate
look at how much overheating was going
on there one thing I'm going to tell you
is I have never seen this ring right
here turn on one of these so I can turn
that I've never noticed that before I
have two more identical zb30s that I've
cut open
went back and pulled the muffler plates
from those I've never seen that
physically turn and it's like a
it's not coming up to here so it's like
right here or something like that that's
interesting just never seen that look at
the temperature the heat inside here
this thing's just clearly been
overheating seems like the check valve's
still intact there's a check valve
inside there okay that seems good
floating seal right here definitely has
seen some overheating going on okay it's
just beat down all right let's look
right here at this top piece I can feel
a ridge where the floating seal meets
the floating seal pushes up against that
okay and there's there's a Groove there
of like this carbon buildup stuff like
and it's very interesting so
I don't like that right there that's a
lack of Maintenance and overheating okay
um
the internal I believe this is the IPR
valve I don't think this had anything to
do with the IPR valve because according
to that Tech bulletin right here well
we'll talk about it in a minute I'll go
through it but it explains when the IPR
valve lets go okay
um then you have your snap disc this is
your internal protection right here
this allows the um the gas to vent the
discharge gas to blow down on the
thermal overload and cause the unit to
go off on thermal
I really think that our problem lied
with that but another thing that I
noticed is right here
this this gasket there's an o-ring on
there and that O-ring is really deformed
almost like it was overheating and just
getting blasted with hot gas over and
over and over again it's not sitting in
there right
so I think that is a a sign pointing
towards what I think was happening and I
think that snap disc was slightly
starting to allow gas to bypass because
and this is just my opinions I'm not an
expert on Copeland compressors okay
just observations but I think that we
were overheating high discharge
temperatures because the low pressure
control was failing and it was just
trying to pump down and pump down and
pump down in the head of the compressor
is just overheating getting hotter and
hotter and hotter until the snap disc
starts to slightly release and and then
I think that's what was causing our
thermal overload situation but the
overall condition of this compressor
the overheating going on in there look
at the the floating seal is just
destroyed the fixed scroll doesn't look
too bad inside I mean there's a little
bit of stuff from me cutting it open
I don't see much uh scroll galling in
here there's slight scroll galling
that's the little round circles and
stuff ever so slightly but I don't
really think we had a flooded start
situation
um what I do start to see underneath the
Old Ham coupling is you can start to see
some copper plating in here so we
definitely had the conditions uh some
moisture inside there with the high
temperatures starting to cause some acid
you can see right in here
look at that
so we definitely should probably go back
and do an acid test on the new
compressor because like I said my
technician we didn't do an acid test on
site but my technician did notice that
the refrigerant smelled a little funny
so we went ahead and changed all the
refrigerant put new dryers on there
pulled a proper evacuation you guys saw
that but we don't know if we still have
any damage inside there okay I didn't
cut the thermal overload open I know
that there's going to be you know some
damage inside there
um you know what
is that starting to expose the windings
right there
it almost looks like
I don't know
when you have presence of acid you can
have wax
floating around the system because the
acids can start to eat away the wax
coating on the windings here so you want
to be cautious about that stuff and
that's where the HH sporland dryers
really come in handy because they have
the high wax removal potential so
I think that our problem was uh the snap
disc right up in here I think that the
compressor was overheating because the
low pressure control had failed and it
was just running running running trying
to pump down and the compressor wouldn't
pump down that low because it was
outside the operating envelope of the
compressor of which is stated in this
technical engineering bulletin right
here and I'll pull up some information
on that all right so here's our
application manual right uh ae1317 R15
but they make these for every compressor
there's a couple really key things that
I want to talk about in this manual okay
so what we're going to do is we're going
to scroll to page six of this manual and
something very interesting as I was
reading through this I noticed something
right down here I highlighted where it
says crankcase heaters apparently on
single phase there is no crank case
heaters required on scroll compressors
very interesting factoid I did not know
that on the three phase it's only
required when it's outdoor install
relation and when the refrigerant charge
exceeds 10 pounds so I'm sure there's
you know variables to some of that but
that was very interesting let's go ahead
and scroll on over to page seven here
high pressure low pressure it tells you
to go to Table Six for set points so
we're going to get there here in just a
minute but interestingly enough certain
oems are approved for low pressure
settings below the standard
recommendations but again
don't think that someone's wrong because
they have it set some way but you know
you got to reach out to the manufacturer
and ask them and see you know how they
got these approvals and what happened
there okay
next pump down recommendations uh it's
saying that ZB models which is uh the
kind of compressor that I have
incorporate a low leak check valve
suitable for pump down applications okay
so just good information to know on that
one let's go ahead and scroll on over to
page eight and internal pressure or
internal temperature protection so it
tells you the different horsepower
compressors from the zb10 through the
zb57 it's saying it has a thermo disc
which is a temperature sensitive snap
disk device located at the scroll
discharge Port it's designed to open and
Route the hot discharge gas back to the
motor protector thus removing the
compressor from the line and I think
that that was our problem but I think
that that snap disk was starting to fail
because I don't know and this is where
someone can correct me in the comments I
believe that snap disk is supposed to
either open or close my situation I
could hear it starting to open okay so I
think it was the snap disk because I
could hear some sort of a bypass going
on but I noticed that if I just went
ahead and shut off the compressor it
didn't go off on thermal that's just my
thought I I could be wrong about that
okay and I want to jump to page 21 here
for the pressure control settings okay
right here it says for the ZB
compressors low pressure minimum cut out
for r404a is 17 PSI maximum cut out is
450 PSI okay now just because minimum
and maximum you know of course there can
be problems with the compressor there
can be failures and different things
like that
I am learning as I'm making these videos
too opening up those application manuals
are very important whatever you're
working on right if you want to know
more about sporlin products you know
find their Tech bulletins right if you
want to know more about Copeland
compressors all you have to do is ask
the Google Okay Google has so much
information if you want to know about a
Carrier Air Conditioner or a Linux air
conditioner just go searching okay
Facebook is a great resource YouTube is
a great resource but you have to do your
own work too you have to dig in and you
have to try to figure these problems out
you can't just trust some dude on
Facebook or some dude on YouTube like me
telling you to do something you need to
do your own research I am certainly not
always right I make mistakes I do not
know everything okay I just try my best
to dig in and find things okay if you
guys hear me see me
doing things that aren't aren't correct
uh saying things that are incorrect feel
free to let me know I'm always looking
to grow and I love feedback okay you
don't got to be a jerk about it but I do
love feedback right so with this call I
was actually there working on an ice
machine wasn't there for the walk-ins I
just happened to be proactive because
this used to be one of my customers that
did routine maintenance but they're not
doing it anymore but they still use me
for service so when I'm on site I
usually walk around look at all their
equipment try to eliminate a service
call later that night kind of a thing
and I think I did eliminate a service
call later that night in this situation
because I was there working on an ice
machine I had to hose off the condensers
I figured you know what I'm gonna walk
around and hose everything else off on
the roof and then I found this one was
off on thermal overload again okay so I
dug into it now luckily in my situation
I noticed that the compressor started to
bypass whenever it would go into pump
down mode so I installed that temporary
pressure control set the settings way
high right and then was able to get
through and it was actually about five
days before I got back there but I did
have the compressor rushed as far as
delivery I had it within three days
after the weekend but um I had it for a
few days and then I was just doing some
other stuff and we got back out there
and got it replaced okay so in this
situation
there's not much I can do to prevent
this again the compressor failed
prematurely way too short of a life
right but the customers not having us
maintain their equipment we're not
cleaning condensers on a regular basis
we're not servicing the equipment
so this is what they're gonna get you
know it's just unfortunate but this is
how it is
you know
um so I really appreciate you guys
making it to the end of the video thank
you so very much for watching if you
haven't already please check out my
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um last but not least if you're
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you okay thank you very much and we will
catch you on the next one